What It’s Like to Travel Saudi Arabia as A Woman
Last Updated on September 10, 2024
This article has been updated to reflect the new changes in visa rules. Traveling to Saudi Arabia as a woman has never been easier.
Beneath my feet, the craggy sandstone cliff drops off to reveal a dizzying height. And below that, the vast plain sprawls endlessly into the horizon. From this vantage point, I can see a few camels resembling tiny lego pieces in the far distance.
It’s no wonder this is called the Edge of the World. Standing at the cliff edge, you really do get the sensation that you’re at the last frontier. Originally known as Jebel Fihrayn, the escarpment is a spectacular natural wonder with dramatic views that would impress even the most hardened travelers. Yet, there is not a single tourist in sight.
This is Saudi Arabia, a mysterious country that has closed its doors to the outside world for years. Few people in the world can get access to what’s known as one of the world’s most difficult countries to travel to — but things are about to change.
Sitting at the cliff edge, I can’t help but feel that I’m at the last frontier, both literally and metaphorically.
Table of Contents
- Solo female Travel in Saudi Arabia
- Changes in Saudi Arabia
- New Visa Program for Travelers to Saudi Arabia
- Why Travel Saudi Arabia?
- My Impressions of Saudi Arabia
- Traveling Saudi Arabia as a Woman
- The Reality in Saudi Arabia
- My Observations from Traveling in Saudi Arabia
- Things to Do in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
- Things to Do Beyond Riyadh
- How to Dress in Saudi Arabia
- Saudi Arabia Travel Guide
Solo female Travel in Saudi Arabia
I have come to Saudi Arabia on the new e-visa system, which the kingdom rolled out in the second half of 2018. It’s part of a bold plan to open up tourism in Saudi Arabia — beyond the millions of Muslims who make the annual hajj pilgrimage to Mecca. As a taster, the kingdom offered e-visas to tourists interested in attending the Formula-E car racing event, the first of its kind to be held in Saudi Arabia.
I wasn’t the least bit interested in the car racing — but the opportunity to get access into what is one of the world’s most closed-off countries was too tempting to pass. It was ridiculously easy to get the e-visa. I booked a Formula-E ticket on the Sharek website, paid US$270 (price included the visa) and received my e-visa within minutes.
The e-visa allows travelers (including women 25 and older) a single entry into Saudi Arabia and stay for 30 days. Even female travelers aged 25 and older will be able to travel independently on the e-visa, without the need for male companions.
Changes in Saudi Arabia
Changes are coming to Saudi Arabia. In fact, it’s on the brink of one of the biggest transformations in the country’s history. And I’m extremely lucky to be here to witness it.
Since Crown Prince Mohammad bin Salman came in power, he has announced that the kingdom will be adopting a form of “moderate, open Islam”.
For the first time in years, women are now permitted to drive and vote. The Saudi Council of Ministers has stripped the religious police of their power, who used to arrest people for not abiding by the rules. They have created a new Islamic center to review the fatwas, Hadith. The government has also just ended a 35-year ban on cinemas. In February 2017, the conservative country allowed female-only gyms and for women to attend sporting events.
According to TIME, Saudi Arabia says it expects to attract 100 million foreign and domestic visitors by 2030 and create 1 million new jobs in the tourism sector. Tourism is the government’s solution to diversify the country’s economy, which is currently completely dependent on oil.
New Visa Program for Travelers to Saudi Arabia
The new visa program offers e-visas to citizens of 49 countries, including the UK, US, Canada, and Australia. Check if you’re eligible here. Travelers can apply for the e-visas on this website, which will deliver your visa by email in just a few minutes.
Saudi Arabia has also lifted some restrictions on women traveling in the ultraconservative Muslim kingdom, The new guidelines allow women to rent hotel rooms without a male guardian’s presence, and foreign men and women to share a room without proof of marriage.
Female tourists are also exempted from wearing the all-covering abaya robe, but will be required to dress “modestly”. (I dressed in an abaya throughout my stay in Saudi Arabia.) These are all great news for those traveling Saudi Arabia as a woman.
Why Travel Saudi Arabia?
I’d wanted to visit Saudi Arabia after watching Wadjda (one of the best travel movies I’ve seen), the first movie produced by a female Saudi Arabian filmmaker. In a country where cinemas are banned and women cannot drive or vote, writer- director Haifaa Al Mansour has broke many barriers with her film.
Part of Saudi Arabia’s appeal for me lies in how difficult it has always been to enter the kingdom. The birthplace and spiritual home of Islam, Saudi Arabia has been closed off to visitors for decades in a bid to protect the kingdom’s religious rules. For years, only a business visa that cost an arm and a leg can get you into this kingdom. Even then, it was mandatory to join a tour and female travelers were not allowed to travel on their own.
Now that Saudi Arabia is opening up to tourism, there has never been a better time to travel there. My trip there was such an eye-opening experience — it gave me a rare glimpse into a world that few foreigners have seen, one that momentarily felt entirely untainted by outside influence.
Yet, before my trip to Saudi Arabia, I was criticized by many friends for supporting a regime that has strict Islamic laws enforced, brutally murders law-offenders (case in point: Jamal Khashoggi) and waged a brutal war against Yemen.
To be clear, I believe that a country’s government and its people are two separate things. Traveling to a country doesn’t mean I’m supporting their government or agree with the politics of the country. If that is the case, I probably shouldn’t ever travel to the US, UK and many other places.
My Impressions of Saudi Arabia
As with the case for many countries I’ve been, Saudi Arabia turned out to be quite different from how it is often portrayed on the news media.
For one, I was overwhelmed by how vibrant the capital city of Riyadh was (weekends are an exception, when everything opens only at 4pm). Tall skyscrapers, sparkly new malls and neon-signed restaurants line Olaya Street, the main artery of the city. I spotted international brands everywhere — from Victoria’s Secret to Zara, McDonalds to Starbucks.
Every women in Saudi Arabia wore an abaya (a long-sleeved black robe), but I also noticed many had on Kim Kardashian-style makeup, immaculately polished nails, branded handbags and the trendiest sunglasses.
At a traditional mud-walled restaurant called Najd Village, our group of mixed unrelated men and women sat and ate together — which would have been outlawed a few years ago. At the iconic Kingdom Tower’s Skybridge (observation deck), men and women were also allowed to mingle freely, no questions asked.
Traveling Saudi Arabia as a Woman
I was surprised by how much freedom I enjoyed as a female traveler. I moved freely around the city in Ubers by myself and had no problems hanging out with my male travel mates.
I also chatted freely with both male and female Saudi Arabians and they were more than happy to socialize with us. I didn’t have any problems entering places because of my gender, though females have to use the family areas in public spaces.
I found myself adapting easily to wearing an abaya since everyone else was. A friend of mine also wore a head scarf over her hair since most women did. We covered up out of respect — neither the abaya nor the hijab are required by Saudi law.
Considering that tourism is very new to them, I was expecting quite a bit of curious stares from locals. But I was wrong! Saudi Arabians are used to seeing foreigners as over 30% of the population are foreign workers and expats. Saudis are also a global and well-traveled bunch, many of them having studied and lived abroad.
The Reality in Saudi Arabia
Mind you, there ARE still plenty of strict rules that govern the kingdom. For instance, gender segregation is still obvious in many places. Restaurants have designated entrances and sitting areas for men, and family areas for women.
Food courts and fast food restaurants too have separate lines for women and men. And Saudi women still aren’t allowed to travel independently without a male guardian (usually father or brother).
Do Saudi women feel like second-class citizens? Probably. But that doesn’t mean they’re weak and submissive. I met several Saudi women who were strong, confident, outspoken and intelligent. Many of them received good education and have their own thinking.
My Observations from Traveling in Saudi Arabia
What I learned is that Saudi Arabia is a culture of conservatism and modesty. The society here is modern and wealthy, but traditional and deeply rooted in their culture at the same time. Many women in Saudi Arabia cover up to protect their modesty — which has more to do with their culture/tradition than religion. This is a custom that predates Islam!
I also noticed that Saudi men are very respectful and civilized to women — not just to foreign women, but to women in general. In certain Muslim countries, men can be aggressive especially towards foreign women. I’ve had unpleasant encounters in Iran, Iraqi Kurdistan and Afghanistan where men were openly soliciting and I even got groped in crowded public places.
But Saudi Arabia was quite the opposite — men here are polite, respectful and civilized. They speak to women politely and treat them with respect. Again, I’m not saying that Saudi Arabians are not being oppressed by the strict rules of the royal decree.
Things to Do in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
Because many Saudis speak English and are a friendly bunch, I met quite a few people and felt that I had a good sense of the country and their culture.
I came with the assumption that Riyadh wouldn’t have many interesting sights – but I was wrong. There were definitely enough to keep my four days busy and exciting. Most shops and restaurants close at prayer times (that’s five times a day) and many only open at 4pm, so I had to plan my day around it. It was surprisingly easy to get around Riyadh on Uber (even on my own, as a girl).
If you’re planning a trip and wondering where to travel in Saudi Arabia, consider visiting iconic destinations like Masmak Fort, Kingdom Tower, and the At-Turaif Historical Site.
1. Explore Masmak Fort
The first place I recommend checking out is the Masmak Fort (free entry), a clay and mud-brick fort located in the old quarters of Riyadh. It is immaculately restored, with lots of photos and info on display. This building played a major part in the kingdom’s history, as it was here that the recapture of Riyadh by the Saud family (who continues to rule Saudi Arabia today) took place. Right next to the fort is Deera Square, colloquially known as the Chop-Chop Square, where public beheadings used to take place.
2. Go up to the Top of Kingdom Tower
For sunset, head to the Sky Bridge at Kingdom Tower, an iconic building owned by the royal family. Extending 65 meters in length, the Sky Bridge is a steel structure weighing about 300 tons, overlooking the whole of Riyadh. The trip to the SkyBridge passes through two elevators, first elevator will take about 50 seconds to reach the height of 180 meter to the Transfer level, and second elevator will take less than 40 seconds to reach its final destination the Sky Bridge. Entry fee is 60 SAR per person.
3. Visit At-Turaif Historical Site
During my visit, the At-Turaif historical site had just opened for an exclusive peek after years of restoration work (it will be opened to public shortly). The UNESCO World Heritage Site was the first capital of the Saudi Dynasty, founded in the 15th century. In the 18th and the early 19th century, its regional political and religious role increased, and the citadel of At-Turaif became the centre of the House of Saud. It was absolutely impressive and could easily rival other famous sites like the Alhambra in Spain.
4. Eat at Najd Village
For a traditional Saudi meal, head to the mud-walled restaurant, Najd Village. The traditional chicken kabsa (a rice dish) was delicious and I devoured it with beer (non-alcoholic of course!), sitting cross-legged on the cushioned floor. It’s the only traditional place in Riyadh but definitely worth a visit for a culinary experience.
Things to Do Beyond Riyadh
My short time in Riyadh got me really intrigued and I definitely hope to return to explore more. The country is massive, in fact it’s the biggest in the Middle East. Some parts of Saudi Arabia are off limits to foreign visitors (i.e. non-Muslims) — especially Mecca, the holy land of Muslims.
The most attractive tourism sight in Saudi Arabia is Mada’in Saleh – the Saudi version of Petra in Jordan. Like Petra, the city was hewn from solid rock by the Nabateans. Unlike Petra, it has very few visitors. Sadly, it was closed for restoration work during my visit, although I later found out that it is opened exclusively for the Winter at Tantora festival (which takes place on certain dates in 2019). Check here for details.
Saudi Arabia’s Red Sea coastline is also superb, with stunning beaches and crystal clear waters. The Kingdom plans to build an entire city there known as NEOM, an “independent economic zone with its own laws, taxes and regulations”. It’s said to include an international resort zone that will have a degree of greater tolerance of behavior.
The second biggest city in Saudi Arabia, Jeddah, is also worth a visit. In the winding, labyrinthine backstreets of the old quarter, known as the ‘Balad’, little has changed since the 1980s. The colorful street stalls and market as well as historical architecture remain. The city’s highlights include Souq al-Alawi, Al-Tayibat City Museum for International Civilisation, the Corniche, and Jeddah Tower – planned to be the world’s tallest building – still currently under construction.
How to Dress in Saudi Arabia
Women should wear conservative, loose-fitting clothes. Even though it’s not necessary to wear an abaya (full length cloak) for foreign visitors anymore, I would recommend bringing one just in case.
I bought a simple black abaya with gold trimmings on Amazon before my trip. It would be a good way to fit in. Also bring a headscarf if you want to enter the mosques.
Men should not wear shorts in public. I would advise wearing long pants and long-sleeved shirts.
Saudi Arabia Travel Guide
How to Apply for the Saudi Arabia e-Visa
The new visa program offers e-visas to citizens of 49 countries, including the UK, US, Canada, and Australia. Check if you’re eligible here.
Travelers can apply for the e-visas on this website, which will deliver your visa by email in just a few minutes. You just need to print it out and present it at the airport on arrival.
The e-visa allows for single entry within a 30-day period. This applies to women of 25 and older, who are allowed to visit Saudi Arabia independently.
How to Get to Saudi Arabia
It is surprisingly easy to travel to Saudi Arabia once you’ve got your visa. Flights to Saudi Arabia are really affordable from other parts of Middle East and Europe. You can easily fly into Riyadh or Jeddah, the two biggest cities of Saudi Arabia. Most flights into Saudi Arabia will connect via Istanbul and Dubai.
Flights from Istanbul to Riyadh cost around US$500 return, while you can get flights from Dubai to Riyadh for as cheap as $275 return.
For those flying from Europe, flights from London to Riyadh cost around US$550 return. If you’re flying from the US, flights from New York to Riyadh are usually around US$1200 return with one stopover. Flights from Los Angeles to Riyadh cost around the same.
Search for Flights to Riyadh here!
Where to Stay in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
Hotels in Riyadh are surprisingly affordable. You can get a pretty nice hotel room for less than $50/night. The best area to stay in Riyadh is along the main thoroughfare, Olaya Street. You’ll be able to flag down taxis easily and get to main sights.
Luxury: Novo Hotel
This 4-star hotel is located in the heart of Riyadh’s Olaya area, and it’s an excellent business hotel with some traditional Arabian flair. My friend who stayed there raved about the excellent restaurant and breakfast spread. Check the room rates here.
Midrange: Hyatt Buyutat
I stayed at this simple, budget hotel just a block behind Olaya Street. It’s got a great location and comfortable rooms, though don’t expect this to be an original Hyatt. Check the room rates here. The original Hyatt is Hyatt Regency Riyadh Olaya.
Budget: Sands Inn Hostel
For those on a tight budget, you can book a simple room at this motel for just $20+/night. You’ll still get WiFi and air-conditioning in the room, plus restaurants right below you. Check the room rates.
Where in Saudi Arabia is Safe to Travel?
Is it safe to travel in Saudi Arabia? Many travelers wonder about this, and recent reports indicate that the country has improved its safety measures significantly. Travel warnings remain in place from several governments following terror-related incidents in Saudi Arabia. The US State Department urges citizens to “carefully consider the risks of travel to Saudi Arabia” due to threats from terrorist groups or missile attacks by rebel forces in neighboring Yemen.
When considering travel in Saudi Arabia safety, it’s important to stay updated on local guidelines and advisories to ensure a secure trip.
Avoid travel to these areas:
- Within 50 miles of the Saudi-Yemen border, including the cities of Jizan and Najran
- Qatif in the Eastern province and its suburbs, including Awamiyah
- Hofuf and its suburbs in the al Hasa governorate
Rules of Conduct in Saudi Arabia
Saudi Arabia has very strict Islamic rules and I’d advise you to follow them no matter what. The Islamic laws are strictly enforced, although these days the religious police no longer have the power to arrest people who are not following the rules.
The public practice of any form of religion other than Islam is illegal; as is an intention to convert others. However, the Saudi authorities accept the private practice of religions other than Islam, and you can bring a Bible into the country as long as it is for your personal use.
The new guidelines allow women to rent hotel rooms without a male guardian’s presence, and foreign men and women to share a room without proof of marriage. That said, avoid holding hands with your partner if you’re traveling with one and never show public displays of affection.
Alcohol & Sexual Acts in Saudi Arabia
Penalties for the possession of, or trade in alcohol are severe. Both result in prison sentences. Do not arrive in Saudi Arabia under the influence of alcohol. Importing pork products is forbidden.
During Ramadan, it is forbidden to eat, drink or smoke in public during daylight hours. The possession of pornographic material, or of illustrations of scantily dressed people, especially women, is prohibited.
Homosexual acts and extra-marital sexual relations, including adultery, are illegal and can be subject to severe penalties. It’s also illegal to be transgender. Transgender people traveling to Saudi Arabia are likely to face significant difficulties and risks if this is discovered by the authorities.
Further Reading on Saudi Arabia
There are few places left that can be said to represent the last frontier of tourism – Saudi Arabia is one of them.
I hope this guide will prepare you for your trip to Saudi Arabia. Keep an open mind and bring your sense of adventure, and I’m sure Saudi Arabia will enthrall you.
If you’re looking to read more on other parts of the Middle East, check out these articles:
- Oman Travel Guide
- Solo Female Travel in Iran
- 22 Best Things to Do in Istanbul, Turkey
- 1 Week in Lebanon: My Itinerary
- 2-week Egypt Itinerary
- Iraqi Kurdistan Travel Guide
- Is It Safe to Travel Iraq?
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The Comments
Shalet Jimmy
Completely different picture on Saudi Arabia. Never knew it was such a beautiful place and also the people.
Nellie Huang
Shalet JimmyYes I heard so much about Saudi Arabia on the news, but never saw pictures of the streets and landscapes before going there. It was definitely interesting to get on the ground and talk to its people to see what the real Saudi Arabia is like.
Simon
Amazing place…had no idea about it’s beauty. Loved it.
Seni
What a beautiful and informative piece! Clearly opened my eyes about a lot of things.
Scott
How long was your whole trip? What was the basic itinerary? And was there anything you would have liked to have seen that you didn’t see?
Nellie Huang
Scotthi Scott, I did mention in my article that my trip was only a short 4-day trip in Riyadh. There was enough in Riyadh to keep me busy for the four days (read my article more carefully and you’ll see the places I recommend visiting) as well as a day trip to the Edge of the World.I definitely wished I had more time to explore more of the country including Mada’in Saleh which is closed for restoration and Jeddah.
Natasha Amar
Hi Nellie,
This post was such an intriguing read! I am based in neighboring Dubai and even for us Dubai residents, Saudi Arabia feels like a whole other world. Until now, I’ve had no desire to visit, but you’re right. As one of the last countries to open to tourism, it feels incredibly exciting to watch how this new change comes into effect in Saudi.
Markus
Great explore. Loved it!
Matt Thomas
Great read – very interesting. Thanks!
~Carol
Saudi is one of the places I am most intrigued by and looking forward to visiting someday soon. I came close for now via the King Fahd Causeway between Bahrain and Saudi Arabia. I stood as close to the fence that was the border, in the middle of the causeway. :) So exciting! I cannot wait to have the opportunity to visit, as I continue my own quest to see every country in the world. Your stories inspire me Nellie! Keep traveling.
Nellie Huang
~CarolThanks for the comment Carol! You were so close! I’m sure you will get there soon enough. Saudi Arabia really impressed me in many ways. Happy travels!
Basil. M. Otybie
~CarolThanks for visiting us.
Sorry about the rules in saudi arabia.
But you must not forget that it’s a religious country. I recommend first for people that want to visit to travel to bahrain, UAE, kuwait ETC.,to get adjusted to KSA’s rules.
Jeffrey Sipe
Nice story but it includes a number of errors. Executions no longer take place in public. Also, in Balad, MUCH has changed since the 1980s. The passageways are paved or cobblestone whereas they used to be sand, there were only light bulbs here and there and there was nowhere near the organization there that there is today. Also, Mada’in Saleh is not a city but, essentially, a graveyard. The tombs have been dug into the rock. There are currently excavations of living areas taking place.
That said, you’ve done better than most in describing the place. To really have a sense of the place, one needs more than a few days. There is a lot going on that you don’t see.
Nellie Huang
Jeffrey SipeThanks for pointing out my errors. Admittedly, I spent less than a week in Saudi Arabia and wrote my observations above. Good to know executions no longer take place in public! I will correct that in my article. I know that Mada’in Saleh is not a city, it seems to be an archaeological site besides being a graveyard. I definitely want to go there the next time I’m in Saudi Arabia.
Gem
I can’t find any information about travelling there alone as a female from the UK, I’m 29 but all I’ve read is that females over 25 can only go as part of a registered tour group. I don’t want to travel like that. Any more and info on how to go completely alone? Thanks
Nellie Huang
GemNo that’s not essential anymore. But these days, Saudi Arabia only issue e-visas during certain events. Check out ‘Winter at Tantora’, they organise events that allow you to book e-visas.
Katherine
Hi loved reading your story. Thanks for sharing. I’ve spent a lot of time in Bahrain but would love to visit KSA. You might not know but maybe you do? I’m interested in visiting my Lebanese friend who will be working in Riyadh, but my friend is male and I’m female. Is it possible for us to go look at tourist things together and go to dinner or malls? Of course id stay in a hotel or something by myself. Is that possible? Also how do we find out about events happening to get a visa? I’m American by the way. Thanks so much for the info it’s been difficult to find any ?
Jade Dsa
This was a total eye opener! There are so many misconceptions about Saudi Arabia. Thanks for clearing some of those up.
thelazygeographer
It’s defitintely an interesting place to go, I’m curious and your post is really interesting. But. The people and the governement are 2 different things, right, but women in Saudi Arabia can be stoned to death or beheaded if found guilty of whitchcraft. That’s not the place where you want to spend my money or take my gf.
STELLA
I still find Saudi Arabia boring to visit if they still have restrictions.
Maryam Aldossary
Thanks Nellie for all this information to clarify what Saudi Arabia is.
I hope that you could spend more time to visit other cities such as Khobar and Jubail in the east. There are many interesting things to do. I don’t think there are more generous people than Saudis in the world ! So we treat every tourist as one of our family regardless of religion or gender.
It’s so frustrating to see all the bad impressions about my country on the media. It’s completely wrong to create this feeling to a country or its people without a real meeting.
I’m a Saudi girl and I’m so proud to be Saudi.
dave O
Thanks for the article. I am traveling to KSA in early December and info is hard to find.
I fly into Riyadh and will spend a couple of days there. I will probably fly out of Jeddah. I’m just trying to figure out how much time I need in between. Maybe a trip to Dammam and Al-Hasa in the east?
Nellie Huang
dave OHi Dave, thanks for the comment! Yes I’ve heard that Dammam is pretty cool too. Madain-Saleh probably won’t be open by then, but it’s definitely something I want to return to Saudi Arabia to see.
Maxonium
Hi, I read recently
People in Saudi Arabia speak the Arabic language. According to data on inbound tourists in Saudi Arabia, 13,380,000 tourists arrive in the country each year. The first McDonalds in Saudi Arabia was opened on 8 December 1993, and it was located in Riyadh. One of the most popular national dishes of Saudi Arabia is kabsa.
Is it different when you’re a woman?
Nellie Huang
Maxoniumhi Maxonium, yes they speak Arabic and there are McDonalds in Saudi Arabia. Every year, millions of people come to Saudi Arabia for the pilgrimage to Mecca. As for traveling Saudi Arabia, it is different for women as their society has different standards for women. Saudi women are expected (and legally binded) to cover up and we, female travelers, should cover up too as a sign of respect and to blend in.
Alex
Hello,
Thank you for the article! It’s so useful =)
I am traveling to KSA for work (flying Etihad via Abu Dhabi) and I am finding mixed information about bringing in personal use medications (like acetaminophen for headaches and birth control). Did you have any issues with something like this?
Nellie Huang
Alexhi Alex, thanks for dropping by. I brought a first-aid kit (with usual stuff like paracetamol and dramamine) and they didn’t check it at all. I had it in my checked-in luggage of course. If you’re carrying it in your carry on, that might be a different story. From my experience, there wasn’t any strict checking at security or customs (the strictest I’ve seen is still in the US and UK).
Victoria@TheBritishBerliner
‘Nice one Nellie.
I’m not sure if I’m ready to visit Saudi Arabia myself, but I absolutely loved the way you wrote your description of it!
Nellie Huang
Victoria@TheBritishBerlinerThank you for the kind words!
pradeep
i haven’t visited saudi arabia but your words telling a lot about saudi. it seems like we are in saudi. thanks for wonderfull post.