Asmara Eritrea: An Art Deco City in Africa

Last Updated on November 23, 2021

Asmara, the capital city of Eritrea, is a unique mishmash of Art Deco architecture, vintage barber shops and age-old Orthodox churches. Located in the Horn of Africa, it is unlike any other city in Africa — in fact, it looks more like Europe almost 70 years ago.

When the Italians colonized Eritrea between 1890 and 1941, they built around 400 Art Deco and modernist buildings all over the capital city. Asmara was nicknamed “La Piccola Roma” (Little Rome), because of the urban layout and architecture. When WWII began, the Italians left Eritrea, but they left a legacy behind.

Today, the entire Asmara city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and offers visitors the chance to travel back in time, to a different era and continent. I spent days strolling along its palm tree-lined boulevards, sipping macchiato and getting to know its people, and fell head over heels for Asmara, Eritrea. 

Asmara, Eritrea

Located at over 2,000 m above sea level, Asmara city has a pleasant mountain climate and was thus chosen to be the capital of the Italian East Africa. At that time, the Italian colonies included Libya, Somalia and Ethiopia.

Italy developed an urban plan as early as 1913. Cinemas, hotels and cafes were constructed in rapid succession, an entire city popping up inland from the Red Sea. The construction boom was only halted in WWII, when the British military took over control of Eritrea.

In the subsequent years, Asmara faced a rough road to independence under Ethiopia’s brutal oppression. The Eritrea-Ethiopia war lasted 30 years, leaving millions displaced or dead. In 1993, Eritrea finally gained independence and became a free country. But border conflicts with Ethiopia continued until 2018 when a peace treaty was signed between the two countries.

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Asmara City: UNESCO World Heritage Site

How did Asmara’s colonial buildings survive decades of war? In neighboring Libya in Tripoli and Mogadishu in Somalia, most of their colonial buildings were deliberately destroyed upon independence.

But Eritrea’s road to independence was a long one, spanning over 100 years.  Many of the Italian buildings were put to practical use (as banks and municipality) and they became an essential part of the Eritrean heritage. The Eritreans actually still take pride in the Asmara architecture.

Between 2001 and 2007, World Bank funded a project to carry out preservation work on Asmara’s colonial buildings. Since 2014, the EU-funded Asmara Heritage Project (AHP) has taken on restoration work. Asmara eventually gained UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2017.

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Is It Safe to Travel Asmara, Eritrea?

After years of war and occupation, Eritrea is now finally peaceful and safe for travelers to visit. Ethiopia and Eritrea signed a peace treaty in July 2018 as well as a joint declaration formally ending the border conflict.

Currently, the US and UK Foreign Offices advise against all travel within 25km of Eritrea’s land borders, with the exceptions of the towns, Senafe and Tessenei. But all other parts of Eritrea are safe to visit.

Asmara city is one of the safest cities in Africa, and it’s absolutely walkable even at night. You won’t find the usual chaos in other African capital cities here. Instead, there is an air of calm and a laidback atmosphere. I felt extremely safe here, not having to worry about hustlers.

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Things to Do in Asmara, Eritrea

Admire the Art Deco Architecture

Many of the attractive buildings in time-warped Asmara city are found along the main street, Harnet Avenue. But there are hundreds of them scattered all over the city. Here are some of the most prominent art deco buildings in Asmara, Eritrea.

Cinema Impero

Standing along the busy Harnet Avenue, Cinema Impero is the most prominent building on the palm-lined main street. It still features an Art Deco exterior, though its interior is falling into disrepair. There is also a vintage machine from the 1950s that is on display in the main hall. The attendant is more than happy to show you around for a tip.

Asmara Opera House

Further along Harnet Avenue is the Asmara Opera which has been converted into a cafe. Even though the Asmara Opera House is currently in a crumbling state, you can see how regal and majestic it must have been during the heydays. The main facade features wide arches, a water fountain and semi-circular stairways.

Cinema Roma

Continue your stroll and you will find yourself along Independence Avenue where you will see Cinema Roma. This is my favorite building in Asmara and definitely a hot favorite among the locals as well. It is one of the very few buildings here that has been tastefully restored to its former glory. Concerts and performances are still held here. There’s also a popular cafe in the main lobby of the theater, featuring polished wooden panels and marble flooring.

Fiat Tagliero

The icon of Asmara is this eclectic Art Deco building owned by the Italian automobile company, Fiat. Dating back to 1938, the Fiat Tagliero service station features eye-catching architectural styles and design. Located along Sematat Avenue, it’s a landmark you won’t miss (especially when coming from the airport). It is now abandoned, but definitely worth a visit.

Cinema Dante

Much smaller than the other prominent cinemas in Asmara, this cinema has a nice cafe well known for their traditional Eritrean coffee ceremony. The cinema is located between Harnet Avenue and the Central Market.

Central Post Office

Completed in 1916, the Central Post Office building once served as a High Court. This huge multi-story building is one block behind Harnet Avenue, near Albergo Italia. The entrance is from 178-6 St, rather than the public square on the back side. It has a really cool, vintage interior.

Commercial Bank of Eritrea

The Commercial Bank of Eritrea is another outstanding building located near Albergo Italia. It is said to be have built in the 1900s.  This is a government-owned bank and still works today as a bank.

Cinema Odeon

Located in the diplomatic quarters where all the embassies are found, Cinema Odeon is another striking building with vintage interiors. This one hasn’t been restored (like Cinema Roma), but it is still working as a cinema. The cafe in the building is quite popular and we often find lots of locals hanging around here drinking coffee.

Medebar Market

Located on the far end of the city, this market is now a metal scrapyard but its main gate still stands in perfect condition. Dating back to 1914, the red brick gate is one of the oldest colonial buildings in the city. Besides the metal shops, you can also find some stalls selling spices.

Photograph Vintage Italian Cars Everywhere in the City

It is common to see classic retro cars from the Italian colonization era (1880-1941) plying the streets of Asmara. Some have been pimped and polished for use in this century, but many are still in their original state. The most popular vintage cars found in Asmara are the retro Volkswagen Beetle and Fiat 500.

Explore the Diplomatic Quarters

The upscale residential area behind Theater Roma is the diplomatic quarters where you will find many lavish Italian villas. Many have been spruced up to house embassies and diplomats. The former Sudanese embassy in particularly is exceptionally attractive. Across the road from it is Villa Roma, which is now the Italian Embassy. Nearby is the Africa Pension, which also has an elegant pastel-pink exterior.

See the Great Mosque of Asmara

A prominent building in Asmara’s city centre is the Great Mosque of Asmara, also known as Al Khulafa Al Rashiudin Mosque. Located on Peace Street (near the Central Market), this mosque was built in 1938 from Dekemhare travertine and Carrara marble.  We were not allowed to enter the mosque as it was prayer time. But I heard that if you have a guide, you might be able to enter the mosque and even climb to the top of the tower for a view of Asmara.

Visit the Nda Marian Orthodox Cathedral

Eritrea is made up of Muslims and Orthodox Christians, and they have always lived side by side with one another. Near the mosque you will find the Nda Marian Orthodox Cathedral, a massive complex built on a hilltop. On top of the main entrance, you will see an impressive mosaic depicting religious scenes. It was painted by an Italian artist in the 1950s.

When we visited on a Thursday afternoon, a mass was in session and many churchgoers were dressed with white linen cloths covering their heads, so we didn’t enter the Cathedral. (I recommend bringing a white cloth if you’d like to go in.)

Scour through Asmara’s Markets

Just two blocks behind Harnet Avenue is a series of markets, each block selling a type of produce. There is a fruit market, a spice market, and the most interesting of all, a traditional products market. You can find all sorts of weaved baskets, colorful injera containers, and paintings.

 

Try on Traditional Eritrean Dresses at the Market

The Asmara market is surrounded by rows of tailor shops that sell traditional traditional Eritrean dresses. These are handmade dresses made with durable and high quality material, and embroidered with colorful patterns. I asked around and most shops were selling the dresses for US$100 and upwards.

Go Bowling in a Vintage Alley in Asmara

A fun thing to do in Asmara is to visit the bowling club a block away from Asmara’s Municipality building. Used by the US military in the 1950s, the bowling club is a 70-year-old relic still in use today. Black and white images hang on the walls, while wooden paneling fill the floor and seating area. Play a game or two, so you can see the attendant (a teenage boy named Simon) replace your bowling pins manually. Incredibly unique!

Drink Coffee with Locals in the Cafes of Asmara

Even though it’s been 70 years since the Italian occupation, Eritrea still continues many of the traditions the Italians left behind. There is a vibrant cafe culture in Asmara, with lots of charming vintage cafes serving authentic Italian macchiato and espresso. Sweet Asmara Caffe, Rossina Cafe and Cathedral are all great spots to meet locals and have a chat with them.

See the Tank Graveyard

On the outskirts of the city lie a graveyard for war tanks and trucks. It is a haunting reminder of Eritrea’s tragic past. Most of the tanks have rusted and crumbled, but some still spot USSR plates and symbols. The tank graveyard is massive, which gives us a rough idea of the sheer scale of destruction that happened here.

[fusion_tooltip title=”” class=”” id=”” placement=”top” trigger=”hover”]TIP: This is the only place in Asmara that you need a permit to visit. Just get your permit from the Ministry of Tourism opposite the Cathedral on Harnet Avenue. This permit is free and you can get it immediately.[/fusion_tooltip]

Visit the Mountain Village of Tselot

Located 12miles (20km) outside of Asmara’s city center is the village of Tselot, where the President is from. Tselot is a traditional Eritrean highland village where people live in simple stone houses, transport goods on mules, and farm on lands.

There isn’t much to see here in terms of sights, but it’s interesting to visit if you are not planning to explore other parts of Eritrea besides Asmara. I hired a taxi to bring me here (and the tank graveyard) and it cost around 350 Nafka (US$23). You don’t need a permit to visit Tselot.

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How to Get Around Asmara

By Foot

Asmara is an incredibly walkable city and it’s safe to explore on foot. All the buildings and sites I mentioned above can be. Only the tank graveyard is slightly further out of the city centre.

By Bus

Public transport in Asmara is quite decent. There are red Mercedes Benz buses that ply the main road, Harnet Avenue. There are 10 downtown bus lines, with signs in front indicating the route. For buses to Keren or Massawa, head to the bus terminal near the mosque.

By Taxi

Within the city, you can always find yellow taxis plying the streets. They are cheap if you share them with others. A taxi ride from the airport to downtown Asmara costs around 300 Nakfa ($20), but you can share with others. A private taxi ride from downtown Asmara to the bus terminal can cost 100 Nakfa ($7).

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Where to Stay in Asmara

There are quite a few hotels in Asmara, though only a handful can be booked online. Quality isn’t great and hotel rates range from $80-150/night. There are however lots of basic pensions in the city with prices starting from $10/night.

Budget: Africa Pension

Located in the upscale embassy quarter, this pension has a beautiful, elegant exterior and it’s surrounded by lavish Italian villas. Rooms are simple, but clean. Don’t expect any creature comfort, but it is suitable for those traveling on a tight budget. Read reviews.

Midrange: Crystal Hotel

A popular option among travelers, this budget hotel has very clean and simple rooms, and comparatively good WiFi (don’t expect much though). We met a few travelers here and definitely liked the atmosphere. The receptionists are helpful and the hotel’s restaurant is lively and popular with locals. Check the rates here.

Midrange: Albergo Italia

My favorite hotel in Eritrea is this landmark hotel famed for its classic Italian architecture. Rooms feature beautiful cornices and marble flooring, and are very comfortable. We did run out of water for a whole day though (apparently a common occurrence in Asmara). Albergo Italia offers relatively good value as compared to other hotels in Asmara. Read reviews.

Luxury: Asmara Palace Hotel

This is the only five-star hotel in Eritrea, but it is located near the airport and about a 10-minute taxi ride to downtown. It has two swimming pools (one indoor and the other outdoor), a tennis court, and bars and restaurants. However, they only accept cash and room rates are around US$250 per night. Check current rates.

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What to Eat in Asmara, Eritrea

Food in Eritrea is similar to traditional Ethiopian food, with the injera as their staple. Injera is a huge pancake made from teff. It is usually served with a spicy stew made with meat or lentils.

Do as the locals do and eat injera with your hands, tearing it into small bite sizes and grabbing a piece of meat with it. The injera can be an acquired taste for foreigners because of its sour flavor, but you will get use to it after having it for every meal.

Because of Eritrea’s location along the Red Sea, you will find more seafood here than in Ethiopia. Also due to its colonial history, there are lots of Italian influences in the food in Eritrea. You can easily find pasta and pizza on most restaurants’ menus.

Typical Eritrean Dishes

• Tibsee — Barbecued beef slices cooked on a hot plate
• Zigny berbere — Meat cooked in a tomato stew and berbere spices
• Kitfo — Raw meat mixed with a series of spices and onions (you can order it seared)
• Shiro — Thick, flavorful chickpea stew (good option for vegans)

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Where to Eat in Asmara, Eritrea

In Asmara, you will also find many local fast food places selling pizzas and pasta. But if you are looking for proper meals, there aren’t many proper restaurants offering traditional Eritrean food.

Restaurant prices are standard. A main dish (like tibs and injera) generally costs around US$10. Italian dishes and seafood cost slightly more, at around $12-15. Asmara Beer is very cheap, at $1 each.

• Ghibabo — Definitely our favorite restaurant in Asmara, Ghibabo (pictured) is quite a charismatic place with gazebos and twinkly night lights to jazz up the atmosphere. The traditional dishes (like shiro and tibsi) here are excellent and real spicy! You’ll also find traditional coffee ceremony here.

• Spaghetti and Pizza House — A popular spot along Harnet Avenue, this Italian restaurant has a great atmosphere and its international dishes are great. I recommend the veal cutlet and pizzas.

• Hidmona — Located in the expo area (a 10-min and 100 Nakfa taxi ride from downtown), this is a traditional restaurant that has Eritrean food and occasional dance performances. We were lucky to be there when a big tour group visited, and we managed to crash the party.

• Top 5 Hotel Restaurant — A local friend recommended us this place and it was pretty decent. The rice with meat was simple but good, and the injera with tibs looked amazing.

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Challenges of Traveling Asmara, Eritrea

Independent travel is now allowed in Eritrea and it IS absolutely possible to explore Asmara on your own, without a guide. We traveled Eritrea independently for a week and enjoyed the freedom while spending half of what we would on a tour.

The main challenge of Eritrea travel is being disconnected from the outside world. Because of the totalitarian regime, internet is highly restricted in Eritrea. Even if you do get internet access, it is extremely slow and social media is blocked. 

There are however several cafes in Asmara showing Al Jazeera and CNN news. Cathedral and Rossina Cafes both have tv, broadcasting international news. I was quite surprised to find that, considering how strict the government is with everything else.

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Money in Asmara, Eritrea

The country is a cash-only economy and there are no ATMs here. Your bank card will NOT work here. Banks do not give cash advancements, Western Union is the only possible way to get cash from abroad. 

Be sure to bring cash in USD or Euros to exchange here. The exchange rate currently is 1USD = 15 Nakfa. Other currencies are not accepted, only USD and Euros can be changed. It is not allowed to carry Nakfa out of the country, so don’t change too much money. 

You can only exchange money at the Himbol official exchange bureaus. There is one at the Asmara international airport’s arrival hall and several on the main boulevard, Harnet Avenue. We did not encounter any black market money changers — but even if you do find them, I don’t advise dealing with them as the government is very strict on this!

 

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Extra Reading on Asmara Travel

• I highly recommend reading this book before your trip: Gratitude in Low Voices by Dawit Gebremichael Habte. It is a memoir written by an Eritrean who fled to the US during his teenage years. He incorporates lots of history about Eritrea and shares insights on how life was like during the war.

• Bring an Eritrea guide book as you won’t have internet to research or read up on the country. There are limited foreign books on sale in Eritrea, though you can find a few at the Awghert book store at the stadium. 

• Download Eritrea’s map to use offline before landing in Asmara. Otherwise, you can buy a cool city map of Asmara from Crystal Hotel for 50 Nakfa ($3.50).

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