Eritrea Travel: A Detailed Guide on Safety, Visa and Budget 2024

Last Updated on February 1, 2024

Eritrea travel is not easy, but it’s definitely interesting and very much off the beaten path. Here’s a detailed Eritrea travel guide I compiled based on my trip there.

Dubbed “the North Korea of Africa”, Eritrea is a hermit kingdom and the most secretive country in Africa. Since independence in 1993, the nation has been ruled by a totalitarian government and has become one of the least visited countries in the world.

For centuries, the Eritreans suffered tremendously under a succession of colonizers: first the Italians, then the British and Ethiopians. The country endured a long struggle for freedom that spanned across 100 years.

Today, Eritrea has emerged from the ashes to become a small but independent country where peace reigns. The scars of the world can still be seen, but the legacy of the Italian colonization also remains. Its entire capital city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site dotted with 1930s Art Deco buildings, churches and open-air cafes.

Eritrea Travel Guide 

Why Travel Eritrea?

There are many reasons to visit Eritrea, and the main reason for me was its history. Eritrea’s story is one of resilience and persistent fight for freedom.

From the 1890 to 1941, the Eritreans were occupied by the Italians, who brought profound changes and development to the country. In 1941, the British expelled the Italians and took over the country. 10 years later, Ethiopia annexed Eritrea and claimed it to be its 14th state.

After a 30-year war with Ethiopia that involved millions dead and displaced, Eritrea finally gained independence and became a free state in 1993. Despite the tough political and economic situation, Eritrea remains one of the most intriguing destinations in Africa, particularly for travelers seeking something a little different.

---

Is it Ethical to Travel Eritrea?

Today, Eritrea is governed by a one-party totalitarian dictatorship in which national elections have never been held. President Isaias Afwerki, who has been in office since independence, has often expressed disdain for the western concept of democracy.

The Eritrean government’s human rights records is among the worst in the world. The mandatory military service (for both male and female) requires long, indefinite commitment. As all local media is owned by the government, Eritrea is also ranked third in press freedom, after North Korea and Turkmenistan.

Because of the regime, Eritrea travel can be a controversial subject. I choose to travel to Eritrea because I believe a government does NOT represent its people. I want to get to know a country from ground level. Based on past experiences, the reality in a country is often very different from what’s shown in the news.

---

Eritrea Travel Safety

After years of war and occupation, it is now finally safe to visit Eritrea. Ethiopia and Eritrea signed a peace treaty in July 2018 as well as a joint declaration formally ending the border conflict.

Currently, the US and UK Foreign Offices only advise against travel within 25km of Eritrea’s land borders, with the exceptions of the towns, Senafe and Tessenei. Beyond that, the rest of Eritrea is safe for travel.

Asmara, Eritrea, is one of the safest cities in Africa, and it’s absolutely walkable even at night. You won’t find the usual chaos in other African capital cities here. Instead, there is an air of calm and a laidback atmosphere. Massawa also feels very relaxed, despite the haunting atmosphere that surrounds the abandoned old town.

---

Is It Easy to Travel Eritrea?

Eritrea remains one of the least visited countries in the world for several reasons. The Eritrea travel visa isn’t the easiest to obtain and permits are needed to travel out of Asmara, Eritrea. This is the government’s way of tracking everyone’s movement. 

Independent travel is now allowed in Eritrea and it IS possible to travel Eritrea without going on a tour. Many websites say that it is not allowed to travel independently out of Asmara, but that is outdated information. We traveled Eritrean independently for a week and enjoyed the freedom while spending half of what we would on a tour.

Because of the totalitarian regime, internet is highly restricted in Eritrea. Even if you do get internet access, it is extremely slow and social media is blocked. SIM cards don’t even have 3G data. The country is a cash-only economy and there are no ATMs here. Your bank card will NOT work here. 

---

Travel Visa and Permits for Eritrea

Everyone needs a tourist visa to enter Eritrea, including Ethiopians. You will need a letter of invitation to apply for an Eritrea visa at your nearest embassy, but that can take months and it is a tedious process.

BUT if you don’t have an Eritrean embassy near you, you can apply for a Visa on Arrival (VOA) from an Eritrean tour operator. We got our VOA from Tekestre who owns Asmara Grande. It took 2 weeks and he charged us US$50 for the service. The VOA costs $70, to be paid at the airport on arrival. They took around 5 people and 1 hour to give us our VOA.

On top of that, it is mandatory to obtain permits to go anywhere outside of Asmara, Eritrea’s capital. The permits are easy to obtain from the Ministry of Tourism opposite the Cathedral on Harnet Avenue. A permit (for each area) costs around 50 Nakfa (US$3.50) and takes just 1 day to process.

[fusion_tooltip title=”” class=”” id=”” placement=”top” trigger=”hover”]TIP: Even if you do have an Eritrean embassy at home, try to get the VOA by providing an address elsewhere (where there’s no embassy). I provided my Singapore address even though I live in the Netherlands, and had no issues.[/fusion_tooltip]

---

How to Get to Eritrea

Asmara International Airport (ASM) is the main gateway into Eritrea. All road borders (with Sudan, Djibouti and Ethiopia) are closed at the time of writing. Flying is the only option.

There are direct flights to Asmara from Dubai (UAE), Addis Ababa (Ethiopia), Cairo (Egypt), and Jeddah (Saudi Arabia). Ethiopian Airlines only resumed flights from Addis to Asmara in 2018 after Ethiopia and Eritrea signed the peace treaty.

• Direct flights from Addis Ababa to Asmara cost around US$230 return (1.5hours)
• Flying direct from Dubai to Asmara costs around $420 return (4 hours)
• Flying direct from Cairo to Asmara costs $430 return (3 hours)

Search for Flights to Eritrea

---

Best Time to Travel Eritrea

The best time to travel Eritrea is in winter (November to February), when temperatures are comfortable for exploring. We visited in late February — the mountain air in Asmara was pleasant while the Red Sea coast was not too hot.

In Asmara, the mountainous terrain causes a huge thermal change between day and night. In winter, daytime temperature is around 73°F (23°C) but it drops to around 42°F(6°C) at night.

July and August are the rainy months. For those visiting in summer, the temperature in Asmara ranges from 79°F (26°C) in the day to 53°F (12°C) at night. But Massawa can get oppressively hot, reaching 113°F (45°C) at times.

---

How Much Time to Travel Eritrea?

Eritrea is a small country, as compared to most countries in Africa. It doesn’t take more than 4 hours to get from Asmara, Eritrea, to major sites like Massawa and Keren on public transport. Also, the interesting sights in Eritrea are located in the cities so you can easily get to them via public transport.

We spent 1 week in Eritrea, and found it sufficient. We visited Asmara and Massawa, but wished we had time to also explore Keren and Qohaito. It’s definitely possible to visit all of them in 1 week. Below is a recommended Eritrea itinerary for those who prefer to see more.

1 Week in Eritrea: Suggested Itinerary

• Days 1-3: Asmara — Eritrea’s capital city is UNESCO-listed Art Deco city, so it’s definitely worth spending 3 days in. Located at 2000m above sea level, the city has a relatively cool climate and beautiful layout.

• Days 4-5: Massawa — This port city has an old town featuring Turko-Egyptian and Italian architecture. But it was heavily bombed by the Ethiopians and is now more of an abandoned town. Do a day trip to one of the pristine, uninhabited Dahlak Islands.

• Day 6: Day trip to Keren — This Arabic town has an interesting weekly camel market (every Monday) and several shrines and mosques. You can climb up to the hilltop viewpoints for panoramic shots of the city. It is a 3-hour bus ride away from Asmara.

• Day 7: Day trip to Qohaito — Eritrea is home to a few Aksumite archaeological sites dating back to 1st century AD, Qohaito is the most well known of them all. It is however a 4.5-hour journey from Asmara and best done on a private taxi.

---

How to Get Around Eritrea

By Bus

Public transport in Eritrea is quite decent. Each city has a bus terminal and there are regular bus services from Asmara to major sites like Keren and Massawa. Buses are either in the form of big 40-person coaches or white Japanese minibuses. They usually leave when full, and are cheap and relatively comfortable. A bus ride from Asmara to Massawa takes around 3 hours and costs 50 Nakfa (US$3.50).

By Taxi

Within the city, you can always find yellow taxis plying the streets. They are cheap if you share them with others. A taxi ride from the airport to downtown Asmara costs around 300 Nakfa ($20). A shared taxi ride within downtown Asmara is usually around 10 Nakfa ($0.70).

If you want to hire a taxi to bring you from one city to another, it is going to cost a lot. We asked around and a taxi from Asmara to Massawa cost around 2000 Nakfa ($130) for a single trip.

---

Cost of Travel in Eritrea

Eritrea is more expensive than other parts of Africa. Tours are particularly expensive, as there are not many operators (scroll down for more details). We traveled Eritrea independently for 1 week and spent around US$600 each.

Accommodation is way overpriced and quality isn’t great. If you’re looking for 3-star hotels, their rates range from $80-150/night.  We stayed at the popular Crystal Hotel ($84/night) and Albergo Italia ($100/night). There are however lots of basic pensions with prices starting from $10/night. 

There are lots of Italian cafes in Asmara, serving fresh fruit juices and cakes/sambusa for less than $1. But if you are looking for proper meals, a main dish in a restaurant (like tibs and injera) generally costs around US$10. Meat dishes and seafood cost slightly more, at around $12-15. Asmara Beer is very cheap, at $1 each. 

---

Travel Eritrea Independently or Book a Tour?

It is quite easy to travel Eritrea independently, especially if this is not your first time in Africa. Many African capital cities are chaotic, gritty and dangerous — but not Asmara. Like I mentioned, the city and many other parts of the country are calm and laidback. 

Public transportation is decent and distances are short in this small country (3-4 hours max from Asmara to Massawa, Keren and Qohaito). We had no problems getting permits in Asmara and taking the local transport ourselves. Everyone was kind to us, and there were always people who spoke English that offered to help us translate.

If you prefer to travel Eritrea with a guide, Asmara Grande is the most popular one. Many of my friends have traveled with them. We just used them to get our visa, for which they charged a service fee of $50. Tour prices are high, at around US$2500 for a 5-day private tour. That however does not include the hotel stays and visa cost.

 

---

Money in Eritrea

It’s important to know that Eritrea is a cash-only economy and there are no ATMs here. Your bank card will NOT work here. Banks do not give cash advancements, Western Union is the only possible way to get cash from abroad. 

Be sure to bring cash in USD or Euros to exchange here. The Eritrean currency is the Nafka. The exchange rate currently is 1USD = 15 Nakfa. Other currencies are not accepted, only USD and Euros. It is not allowed to carry Nakfa out of the country, so don’t change too much money. The airport authorities will check your wallet when you leave the country.

You can only exchange money at the Himbol official exchange bureaus. There is one at the Asmara international airport’s arrival hall and several on the main boulevard, Harnet Avenue, in Asmara. We did not encounter any black market money changers — but even if you find them, we don’t advise dealing with them as the government is strict on this!

  

---

Best Things to Do in Eritrea

Admire the Art Deco Architecture in Asmara

The entire city of Asmara, Eritrea, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with thousands of Art Deco and modernist buildings erected by the Italians during their reign from 1890 to 1941. Nicknamed “la piccola Roma” (Little Rome) by the Italians, the city is reminiscent of Europe in 70 years ago.

The city’s most attractive buildings are found along the main street, Harnet Avenue. The most prominent art deco buildings in Asmara include the Fiat Tagliero service station, Cinema Impero, Theater Roma, and Medebar Market. Read my Asmara guide for more details on things to do.

Scour through Asmara’s Market

Just two blocks behind Harnet Avenue is a series of markets, each block selling a type of produce. There is a fruit market, a spice market, and the most interesting of all, a traditional market selling locally produced items. You can find all sorts of weaved baskets, colorful injera containers, and paintings.

Go Bowling in a Vintage Alley in Asmara

A fun thing to do in Asmara is to visit the bowling club a block away from the Municipal building. Used by the US military in the 1950s, the bowling club is a 70-year-old relic still in use today. Black and white images hang on the walls, while wooden paneling fill the floor and seating area. Play a game or two, so you can see the attendant replace your bowling pins manually. Incredibly unique!

Drink Coffee with Locals in the Cafes of Asmara

Even though it’s been 70 years since the Italian occupation, Eritrea still continues many of the traditions the Italians have left behind. There is a vibrant cafe culture in Asmara, with lots of charming vintage cafes serving authentic Italian macchiato and espresso. Sweet Asmara Caffe, Rossina Cafe and Cathedral are both great spots to meet locals and have a chat.

See the Tank Graveyard

On the outskirts of the city lie a graveyard for war tanks and trucks. It is a haunting reminder of Eritrea’s tragic past. Most of the tanks have rusted and crumbled, but some still spot USSR plates and symbols. From afar, the graveyard looks massive, giving one a rough idea of the sheer scale of destruction that happened here. Take a taxi here as it is located quite far from Asmara’s city centre.

Visit the Mountain Village of Tselot

Located 12miles (20km) outside of Asmara’s city center is the village of Tselot, where the President is from. Tselot is a traditional Eritrean highland village where people live in simple stone houses, transport goods on mules, and farm on lands.

There isn’t much to see here in terms of sights, but it’s interesting to visit if you are not planning to explore other parts of Eritrea besides Asmara. Locals are friendly and curious, and there are great mountain views. I hired a taxi to bring me here (and the tank graveyard) and it cost around 350 Nafka (US$23). You don’t need a permit to visit Tselot.

Explore the Abandoned Port City of Massawa

Poised along the Red Sea, Massawa has been a major port of Eritrea for centuries and it is rich in history. It was ruled by a succession of empires, including the Ottoman, Egyptian and Italian empires. One of the biggest battles in the 30-year year long war between Eritrea and Ethiopia took place in Massawa.

The evidence from the war is still evident, as the old town lies in ruins and a haunting atmosphere surrounds it. Some of the most outstanding buildings include the ruins of Ethiopian Emperor Haile Selassie‘s summer palace and the town hall.

Visit the Dahlak Archipelago

Just a boat trip away from Massawa is the Dahlak Archipelago, a group of over 126 pristine islands scattered across the Red Sea. The archipelago has been famous for their pearl fisheries since the Roman times and still produce a substantial number of pearls. You can also go scuba diving off the Dahlak islands.

These days, only four of the islands are permanently inhabited. Madote island is the most popular, followed by Dissei which is inhabited by the Afar people. Boat trips there are very expensive though: we were quoted 11,000 Nafka ($733) from every source in Massawa for a day trip.

Explore Keren, a Muslim Town

The second largest city in Eritrea is Keren. With a largely Muslim community, Keren is best known for its weekly camel market (every Monday). The city’s most interesting sites include the 19th century Egyptian fort, the 1920s former railway station, and the old mosque.

Time your visit to coincide with the annual Mariam Dearit festival, which falls on May 29 every year. During the festival, priests deck out in regal robes carry Christian figures into the Mariam Dearit shrine. The small Catholic shrine is built into a baobab tree said to be 500 years old or more.

Admire the Aksumite Ruins of Qohaito

Eritrea is home to a few Aksumite archaeological sites dating back to 1st century AD, Qohaito is the most well known of them all. The UNESCO site Qohaito is debated to be the town Koloe, a Greco-Roman city that pre-dates the Aksumite kingdom. The city’s impressively large remains are testament to its once-great stature.

---

Where to Stay in Eritrea

There are quite a few hotels in Asmara, though only a handful can be booked online. Quality isn’t great and hotel rates range from $80-150/night. There are however lots of basic pensions in the city with prices starting from $10/night. In other cities, hotels are very limited, but again there are several pensions as long as you don’t mind roughing it.

Asmara: Crystal Hotel

A popular option among travelers, this budget hotel has very clean and simple rooms, and comparatively good WiFi (don’t expect much though). Location is good, the receptionists are helpful and the hotel’s restaurant is lively and popular with locals. Check the rates here.

Asmara: Albergo Italia

My favorite hotel in Eritrea is this landmark hotel famed for its classic Italian architecture. Rooms feature beautiful cornices and marble flooring, and are very comfortable. We did run out of water for a whole day though (apparently a common occurrence in Asmara). For $100 per room, Albergo Italia offers really good value as compared to the other hotels. Read reviews.

Asmara: Asmara Palace Hotel

This is the only five-star hotel in Eritrea, but it is located near the airport and about a 10-minute taxi ride to downtown. It has two swimming pools (one indoor and the other outdoor), a tennis court, and bars and restaurants. However, they only accept cash and rooms are expensive. Check current rates.

Massawa: Grand Dahlak Hotel

The only hotel in Massawa is the Grand Dahlak Hotel that stands across the water from the old town. It looks pleasant from the outside, but rooms are smelly and are rather basic. The swimming pool is in disrepair and WiFi doesn’t work. Twin rooms are around $84/night. Read reviews here.

---

What to Eat in Eritrea

Food in Eritrea is similar to traditional Ethiopian food, with the injera as their staple. Injera is a huge flatbread made from teff (a grain rich in fiber). It is usually served with a spicy stew made with meat or lentils. [Read my guide on Ethiopian food.]

Do as the locals do and eat injera with your hands, tearing it into small bite sizes and grabbing a piece of meat with it. The injera can be an acquired taste for foreigners because of its sour flavor, but you will get use to it after having it for every meal.

Because of Eritrea’s location along the Red Sea, you will find more seafood here than in Ethiopia. Also due to its colonial history, there are lots of Italian influences in the food in Eritrea. You can easily find pasta and pizza everywhere.

Traditional Eritrean dishes

• Tibsi — Barbecued beef slices cooked on a hot plate
• Gored gored — small chunks of seared meat cooked with pepper and spices
• Zigny berbere — Beef chunks cooked in a tomato stew and berbere spice
• Kitfo — Raw meat mixed with a series of spices and onions (you can order it seared)
• Shiro — Thick, flavorful lentil stew (good option for vegans)

---

Where to Eat in Eritrea

One of the best things about Eritrea travel is the delicious food and coffee here. There is a vibrant cafe culture in Asmara, with lots of charming vintage cafes serving authentic Italian macchiato, gelato and cakes.

In Asmara, you will also find many local fast food places selling pizzas and pasta. Restaurants are more expensive. A main dish (like tibs and injera) generally costs around 130-160 Nakfa (around US$10). Italian dishes and seafood cost slightly more, at around $12-15. Asmara Beer is very cheap, at $1 each.

• Asmara: Ghibabo — Definitely our favorite restaurant in Asmara, Ghibabo (pictured) is quite a charismatic place with gazebos and twinkly night lights to jazz up the atmosphere. The traditional dishes (like shiro and tibsi) here are excellent and real spicy!

• Asmara: Spaghetti and Pizza House — A popular spot along Harnet Avenue, this Italian restaurant has a great atmosphere and its international dishes are great. I recommend the veal cutlet and thin-crust pizzas.

• Asmara: Hidmona — Located in the expo area (a 10-min and 100 Nakfa taxi ride from downtown), this is a traditional restaurant that has Eritrean food and occasional dance performances. We were lucky to be there when a big tour group visited, so we joined in the dances and had a delicious Eritrean feast.

• Massawa: Grand Dahlak Hotel — Several people recommended the hotel’s restaurant to us. It was decent and the fish was pretty good, though my friend complained of stomach problems after that. Fish is not cheap, at around 200 Nafka each. 

---

What to Pack for Eritrea

Eritrea does get cold during the winter months (November to February). But temperatures are mild, reaching around 73°F (23°C) in the day and 42°F (6°C) at night. Even in summer, temperature drops to around 53°F (12°C) at night.

Bring layers regardless of the time you are traveling Eritrea. If you visit Eritrea in summer, t-shirts and long pants will suffice. For those visiting in winter, just bring a light jacket for the chilly nights. Don’t forget your sunscreen and hat as the sun in mountainous Eritrea can be very strong.

Many Eritrean Christian Orthodox ladies (especially in the villages) cover their hair with a white linen cloth, while Muslim ladies wear headscarfs. They are not very conservative and do not expect foreigners to cover up. Try to cover your shoulders and knees. It is fine to wear a normal swimsuit in Massawa and the Dahlak islands.

---

Internet and Data in Eritrea

Getting connected in Eritrea is challenging. Because of the totalitarian government regime, internet is highly restricted in Eritrea. Be sure to get a VPN for Eritrea travel.

Even if you do get internet access, it is extremely slow and social media is blocked. SIM cards don’t even have 3G data. Locals are not even allowed to have internet at home in Eritrea.

There are lots of internet cafes and some hotels (like Albergo Italia and Crystal Hotel) offer free WiFi, but the connection is very slow. A few locals have said that Eritrea’s internet connection works better with Android than Apple devices. Both my friend and I have the iPhone, and could only send and receive emails. 

---

People and Language of Eritrea

Eritrea is a multi-ethnic country, with nine ethnic groups that make up its population of 5 million people. Eritrea is made up of Muslims and Orthodox Christians, and they have always lived side by side with one another.

The Tigrinya make up the majority of the population, making Tigrinya the main language of Eritrea. Learn some basic words like “Kemelaha” (how are you?) and “Ya’ahnele” (thank you!) and locals really appreciate it! Many Eritreans we met speak Tigrinya, Arabic and English, while some of the older generation speak a bit of Italian. We were definitely surprised by how easy it was to get by with English. 

The long periods of war resulted in many people fleeing the country, especially during the Ethiopian colonization. There are large Eritrean diaspora communities in the US and Europe. I met an American-Eritrean while in Asmara, who actually sought asylum as a refugee 30 years ago. She was returning for a visit and told me her interesting story.

---

Practical Tips for Eritrea Travel

• Feel free to print out this Eritrea travel guide or bring an Eritrea guide book as you won’t have internet to research or read up on the country. There are limited foreign books on sale in Eritrea, though you can find a few at the Awghert book store at the stadium. 

• Highly recommend reading this book before your trip: Gratitude in Low Voices by Dawit Gebremichael Habte. It is a memoir written by an Eritrean who fled to the US during his teenage years. He incorporates lots of history about Eritrea and shares insights on how life was like during the war era.

• Download Eritrea’s map to use offline before landing in Asmara. Otherwise, you can buy a cool city map of Asmara from Crystal Hotel for 50 Nakfa ($3.50).

• Be prepared to go unplugged during your stay in Eritrea. Internet access is extremely limited. Download a VPN service before you arrive.

• Be sure to bring enough cash with you to last through your trip. There are no ATMs in the country and banks do not do cash advancement for foreign cards. An alternative is Western Union, with the headquarters located at the stadium.

• Apply for your travel permits once you arrive in Eritrea. You can get them from the Ministry of Tourism opposite the Cathedral on Harnet Avenue. A permit (for each area) costs around 50 Nakfa (US$3.50) and takes just 1 day to process.

•  

More information for Eritrea Travel 

I hope you’ve found this Eritrea travel guide to be useful.  The hermit kingdom is definitely an intriguing place for those who love to venture off the beaten path. This small corner of Africa offers rewarding experiences whether you are a culture vulture, history buff, or architecture geek.

Here are more articles that I’ve written about Eritrea and nearby countries in the Horn of Africa:

• Asmara, Eritrea: An Art Deco City in Africa
• My Ethiopia Travel Guide & Itinerary
• 50 Pictures of Ethiopia
• A Guide to Ethiopian Food
• Celebrating Timkat in Ethiopia
• The Rock Churches of Lalibela, Ethiopia

Let me know if you have any other questions on Eritrea travel. I’m more than happy to share all that I’ve learned from my experience traveling Eritrea.

---

Inspired? Pin it!