Last Updated on August 16, 2022

Italy is one of the most visited countries in the world, for good reasons. The country has no shortage of colorful picture-perfect towns, historical treasure troves and some of the best foods in the world. 

Sadly, many parts of Italy have become overrun with tourists in the past decade or so. Venice lost its magic for me after I had to jostle the crowds to get to my hotel. I fell out of love with Rome having to wait in line just to toss a coin into fontana di trevi.

But as I found on my recent trip back to Italy, there ARE ways to steer away from the crowds and explore the less-visited parts of the country.

While hiking the Path of the Gods from Bologna to Florence, I was impressed to find charming villages, historical treasures and beautiful mountains — free of tourists! If you’re looking to find authentic Italy, I recommend doing this hike that gets you into the backroads. Also check out this first-timers guide to Bologna to help you enjoy the city before the trek.

The Path of Gods Guide

What is the Path of the Gods?

The Path of the Gods (Via degli Dei in Italian) is an ancient route connecting Bologna to Florence through the Apennines mountain range in northern Italy.

On the 135-km trail, you are literally following in the footsteps of  the Romans as it retraces parts of the historic Flaminia Military Roman Road built over 2200 years ago. 

NOTE! This Path of the Gods is often confused with The Path of the Gods on the Amalfi Coast, Southern Italy. Both are named Via degli Dei, but the Amalfi trail is only 4 miles (7 km) and takes 1.5 to 2 hours to walk. This one, from Bologna to Florence takes 5 to 6 days to walk.

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How the Path of the Gods Got Its Name

The name Via degli Dei translates to mean “Path of the Gods”. It comes from the names of the five peaks this path crosses over.

They include Mount Adone, Monzuno, Mount Venus, and Mount Lunario. Monte Adone is the highest one, with its peak at 654m above sea level. You’ll not only see sweeping views over the Bologna Hills, but also craggy sandstone cliffs that create a unique landscape.

The highest point during the trek is around 1200m above sea level. While you won’t be traversing high altitudes during the trek, there are a few uphill and downhill walks. But they are not overly steep and are short ascents and descents.

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Why Hike the Path of the Gods

Created in the 1990s, the Path of the Gods is designed to pass through the mountains and rural villages of the Emilia Romagna and Tuscany regions of Italy. The hiking trail also crosses several nature reserves and weaves its way past many monasteries and sanctuaries.

Today, it is a popular hiking and biking trail among Italians — but it’s still relatively unknown among foreign visitors, so go soon! 

Not only will you be exploring the backroads of Italy where tourists are few and far between, you’ll be seeing its nature, learning its history, and experiencing its rich culinary culture.

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 Is it Easy to Hike the Path of the Gods?

Generally speaking, the Path of the Gods is relatively easy and almost anyone with a reasonable physical fitness level can do it. The trail does not reach high altitudes, and neither are there steep ascents or rough terrain. You’re mostly walking on ridges and crossing hills of no more than 1200m high.

You’ll need five or six days to walk the 135km trail at a comfortable pace. That allows you to walk 13-20km a day, which is around 3-5 hours. You don’t need to hike the whole way either — you can also choose to skip some of the less-interesting parts and use the time to visit monasteries or enjoy the spa. It’s all up to you.

If you prefer to walk at a leisurely pace, I recommend hiking the Path of Gods with a tour operator. My hike was organised by Appennino Slow, a tour operator that encourages travelers to  go slow and explore meaningfully. The itinerary they designed for me was perfect, incorporating rest days and adding museum visits and cooking demonstrations.

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How to Hike the Path of the Gods

The Path of Gods is marked by red and white symbols and signs. You’ll find them at the beginning and at the most important intersections.

There are also sign boards in each town, with information on the destinations. But note that everything is written in Italian, only some information boards in towns are translated to English.

Similar to the popular Camino de Santiago, hikers can also get a credential (similar to a passport) and receive a certificate at the end. You can pick one up at the Bologna Tourist Office. Remember to get a stamp at each of your accommodations to present it to the Tourist Office in Florence for your certificate.

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Hike the Path of the Gods Independently or on a Guided Tour?

It is possible to hike the trail on your own, but you might not find your way as only some parts of the trail are signposted. The beginning of the trail in particular didn’t have any signs. The signs for the trail only started appearing at Via de Bregoli after we left Bologna behind.

Also, I didn’t see many hikers on the Path of the Gods, which was great. But if you were walking independently, you won’t be able to ask around or get help if you need. When I did the Camino de Santiago, there were so many other hikers that it was easy to follow the path.

With a guide, you can see a lot more of the flora and fauna (we even spotted a peregrine falcon), and understand the history and environment. My guide Stefano Fazzioli from Appennino Slow was an excellent guide and a wealth of information. He was patient and walked alongside me at my slow pace, sharing interesting info and stories. 

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Who Will Enjoy the Path of the Gods?

The Path of the Gods is suitable for medium-level hikers — those who can hike around 10-20km a day and prefer not to hike for more than one week. It’s perfect for avid hikers who want to go slightly off the beaten path in Italy or combine city visits with a trek.

As I mentioned, I hardly saw other hikers on the trail. The only people I met was a group of hikers from Bologna, who were beginner hikers. They mentioned that this was the first multi-day hike they’ve done. 

At one of the B&Bs I stayed, I had dinner with over 25 hikers who were all doing the Path of the Gods at the same time as me. I thought it was so strange that I never saw any of them on the trail.

That’s the beauty of the Path of the Gods: many people actually hike the trail (mostly Italians) but because of the way it’s designed, you don’t really cross paths with others. Some trails like the Camino de Santiago can get too crowded sometimes.

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When to Hike the Path of the Gods

The best time to hike the Path of Gods is in spring (April to May) and autumn (September to October) when temperatures are mild.

It can get very hot in summer with temperatures rising to 104°F ( or 40°C) during the day. In winter, temperatures in the mountains drop to zero and there can be snow sometimes.

I hiked the Path of the Gods at the end of May. The weather was excellent on the first few days of my hike — it was sunny but not overly hot, and I was comfortable hiking in t-shirt and pants. But it started raining non-stop halfway through my trek.

It was abnormal as usually it is close to 30 degrees Celsius at this time of the year. I recommend checking the weather forecast a few days before your hike to be prepared for the conditions.

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Where to Stay Along the Path of the Gods

Even though most of the Path of the Gods passes through rural areas and tiny villages, I was surprised by the array of accommodations I stayed at. Ranging from beautiful wineries to spa hotels, there’s no shortage of nice and comfortable places to stay at along the trail.

For those on a budget, you can also easily find small simple family-run B&Bs or refuges in almost every town along the Path of Gods. These guesthouses are usually priced at around $25-30 per person.

Refuges where you can sleep on bunk beds in your sleeping bag cost around $10-15 per person. Unfortunately as this isn’t a religious pilgrimage route, so accommodations are not subsidized like on the Camino de Santiago.

Best Places to Stay in Emilia Romagna:

It is important to book your accommodations in advance as there can be a lot of hikers (even if you don’t see them). Here are my favorite places to stay along the Path of the Gods:

Agriturismo Il Passeggere — Undoubtedly my favorite place to stay on the Path of the Gods, this beautiful villa has tastefully designed stone houses for guests to stay and a large hunting estate filled with deers and Tuscan pigs. Its restaurant serves outstanding game meat like deer salami and wild boar steak. Room rates are surprisingly affordable. Check prices here!

L’Isola del Sasso — A beautiful winery surrounded by vineyards and rolling hills that prides itself on sustainable practices and amazing wine. The owner Floriano Cinti started this winery from scratch, learned to make wine himself and built up an impressive collection. They do wine-tasting sessions and show you how they make delicious wine. Book here!

Palazzo Loup — This 18th century villa in Loiano isn’t exactly along the Path of  the Gods, but it’s well worth making a detour for. The villa is extremely rich in history and character, featuring lavish gardens and elegant rooms. I was particularly impressed by the spa with the heated pool and water circuit that all had a spectacular view of the rolling hills. Check prices here!

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Where to Eat Along the Path of the Gods

One of the best parts of hiking the Path of the Gods is the food! Emilia Romagna is known as Italy’s food capital and it’s easy to see why.

It is here that the famous ‘Bologney’ (Bologna sausage),  Ragu (Bolognese) sauce and Tagliatelle pasta were first created. Locals take pride in their food and every single dish is made with love.

You’ll find many traditional trattorias scattered along the Path of Gods that serve these classic Bolognese dishes. Most villages have at least one trattoria (traditional restaurant) and you can’t go wrong in there. It’s almost impossible to have a bad meal in Emilia Romagna.

Here are some of my favorite:

Il Postiglione — This is an excellent trattoria in the countryside with a menu full of classic Italian dishes and homemade goodness. Their specialty is the crescentini (fluffy fried dough puffs) with a spread of salami and cheese. I also had the tortellacci ai porcini (big tortellini with mushrooms) that was seriously the best dish I had on this trip!

Vecchia Trattoria Monte Adone — You’ll have to make a pitstop here even if it’s not in your plan. I had an amazing Italian classic, handmade tagliatelle in ragu sauce. It was so simple yet outrageously delicious. Plus there’s an antipasti and dessert buffet that looks amazing (we didn’t have it). And you’ll get to dine with a panoramic view of the mountains around you.

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What to Pack for the Hike

My motto has always been, “The lighter you pack, the happier you’ll be.” Since you’ll be carrying your belongings with you, it’s important to pack only the essentials and keep your backpack to a maximum of 7kg. (Your backpack shouldn’t weigh more than 10% of your weight.)

It’s important to pack for muddy terrain even if you’re visiting in summer. Some parts of the trail, particular around the Roman Way, is muddy all year round. Be sure to bring a pair of high-ankle hiking boots and waterproof rain gear.

The Path of Gods mainly passes through rural areas with no shops or stores around. On most days, there won’t be any place to buy medication or sports gear, so be sure to pack what you need or buy them in Bologna before starting the trek.

Packing List to Hike the Path of the Gods

• 30L Hiking backpack (with rain cover)
• 1L hydration bladder bag (for easy drinking)
• Hiking boots (to protect ankles and for mud)
• Hiking poles (useful to reduce stress on knees)
• Hiking socks
• Waterproof jacket
• Quick dry hiking pants
• Yoga pants or leggings
• Quick dry t-shirts
• Pyjamas
• Flipflops/Sandals
• First-aid kit (rehydration salts, paracetamol, Compeed etc)
• Cap
• Toiletries
• Snacks (nuts or muesli bars)

*NOTE: Appennino Slow has a transport service where they can bring your  suitcase or things you don’t need on the trek to your next hotel each day.

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My Path of the Gods Itinerary

What I liked about my itinerary was the slow and relaxing pace — I even got a rest day during the six-day trek just to explore the area and relax a bit. That’s why the philosophy behind Appennino Slow resonated with me: they believe in slowly exploring the mountains while experiencing their culture and nature better.

That said, I didn’t walk the entire Path of the Gods from start to end. If you’re a hardcore hiker who wants to complete the entire trek, check out the recommended itinerary at the bottom of the post.

Day 1: Bologna – Sasso Marconi

We started our trek in the heart of Bologna, specifically at Piazza Maggiore (the main square). Bologna is a charming little university city of 400,000 people, with a historical old town worth visiting if you haven’t been.

Making our way out of the city, we eventually arrived at the Portico de San Juan, the world’s longest portico (arched walkway). The 4km long walkway has exactly 666 arches, culminating at the San Luca sanctuary. The sanctuary is a basilica church that stands around 300m above the city plain, and it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

From there, we made our way downhill to Via de Bregoli, a 1.7 km long forested path to reach Talon Park in Casalecchio di Reno. Here you’ll find the 15th-century palace and gardens of the Marquis Talon Sampieri. As we were running late, we took a train from Casalecchio to Sasso Marconi, though you can continue the trail.

Where to Eat & Stay: L’Isola del Sasso

This is a beautiful winery surrounded by vineyards and rolling hills that prides itself on sustainable practices and amazing wine. The owner Floriano Cinti started this winery from scratch, learned to make wine himself and built up an impressive collection. They do wine-tasting sessions and show you how they make delicious wine. Check the latest rates here.

Day 2: Sasso Marconi – Brento

Leaving behind Sasso Marconi, we continued our hike into the forests of the Contrafforte Pilocenio Nature Reserve. The protected area is made up of imposing rocky complex, culminating in the highest peak Monte Adone (654m).

We also passed the Exotic Fauna and Wildlife Protection Centre, a sanctuary for exotic animals, mostly imported illegally for profit and then often mistreated and abandoned. There are all kinds of species here including tigers, lions, and chimps.

Today involved a few uphill walks and downhill descents, but they were not overly steep or slippery. We walked mostly in thick forests that provided shade from the sun and followed the ridges of Monte Frate and Monte Adone before arriving in Brento. From Brento, we were picked up by our hotel by van to Loiano.

Where to Eat: Vecchia Trattoria Monte Adone

You’ll have to make a pitstop here even if it’s not in your plan. I had an amazing Italian classic, handmade tagliatelle in ragu sauce. It was so simple yet outrageously delicious. Plus there’s an antipasti and dessert buffet that looks amazing (we didn’t have it). And you’ll get t you get to dine with a panoramic view of the mountains around you. Check location here.

Where to Stay: Palazzo Loup

This 18th century villa in Loiano is so rich in history and character, featuring lavish gardens and elegant rooms. It’s an elegant spot where weddings are held people enjoy hanging out on the beautiful lawn. I was particularly impressed by the spa with the heated pool and water circuit that all had a spectacular view of the rolling hills. Check the latest rates here.

Day 3: Rest day

The tour operator Appennino Slow knew it was going to rain the whole day so they planned a rest day for me. I was break from trekking and took a rest day, which was a perfect way to get to know the area a bit more. The Loiano area is not along the Path of Gods, but it makes for a fun side trip.

We spent the morning visiting a museum and archaeological site in Monterenzio. The Archaeological Museum L. Fantini gives excellent insights to the area’s rich history. Ancient Etruscan villages had been found here, alongside immaculately preserved artifacts and tombs that date back to 300 BC. I was really impressed by how well preserved the artifacts on display were.

From there, we drove over the Archaeological Site on Monte Bibele where the original Etruscan villages were located. It’s an uphill hike to get to the site itself. The village has been reconstructed by archaeologists and there are even information in English.

Where to Eat: Il Postiglione

This is an excellent trattoria in the countryside with a menu full of classic Italian dishes and homemade goodness. Their specialty is the crescentini (fluffy fried dough puffs) with a spread of salami and cheese. I also had the tortellacci ai porcini (big tortellini with mushrooms) that was seriously the best dish I had on this trip! They too have an antipasti buffet that’s worth checking out if you’re looking for a big meal. Check the location here.

Day 4: Monzuno – Madonna dei Fonelli

Today’s hike was a relatively easy one that took just three hours from start to end. From Monzuno, we climbed up to Monte Venere and found ourselves surrounded by beautiful chestnut forests. The misty environment resembled New Zealand more than Italy.

Eventually we reached the tiny village of Le Croci and made our way up Monte del Galletto. Another hour’s hike took us along the flat ridge of the mountain and we were soon at the hamlet of Madonna dei Fornelli.

NOTE! It was raining the entire day and the trails got pretty muddy and slippery. Make sure to pack waterproof gear and protection for your camera gear in case you get as much rain as I did.

Where to Eat: Ristorante Poli

This simple tavern in the main square of the village serves delicious comfort food like tagliatelle and tortellini. You’ll find many classic Italian dishes here as well as desserts like mascarpone. Prices are cheap and reasonable. Check the location.

Where to Stay: B&B Romani

Also at the main square of the village is this quaint family-run guesthouse. The young owner, Elisa, is an outgoing host and an excellent cook! She even taught me how to cook the local specialty, frittelle di castagne (chestnut dough fritters), and I had a great time cooking in her kitchen. Her home restaurant is an awesome concept, getting hikers from all over together and enjoying a home-cooked meal together. Book your stay here.

Day 5: Madonna dei Fonelli to Passegere

This was probably my favorite day in terms of landscapes, interesting sights and hiking terrain. Walking uphill from the village of Madonna dei Fonelli, we were soon walking amidst poppy fields and daisy meadows. It wasn’t rainy or foggy that morning, so we had clear views of the Appennine mountains around us.

We eventually found ourselves walking in a stunning beech forest, with fairy tale like setting. Creepy branches, green moss and grass carpets surrounded us. Next we descended upon Pian di Balestra, a plain filled with tall, imposing fir trees. The atmosphere was once again a haunting one that resembled the setting of a horror movie.

Then we found our way to the remains of the Flaminia Military or Roman Way, a route that was built almost 2000 years ago by the Romans to connect Bologna and Rome. It was incredible walking on a precious piece of history (despite the ridiculous amount of mud!). After 3 hours of walking, we arrived at Passeggere, a small hamlet in the Tuscany countryside.

Where to Eat & Stay: Agriturismo Il Passeggere

Undoubtedly my favorite place to stay on the Path of Gods, this beautiful villa has tastefully designed stone houses for guests to stay and a large hunting estate filled with deers and Tuscan pigs. Its restaurant serves outstanding game meat like deer burgers and wild boar steaks. Room rates are surprisingly affordable. Check the latest rates!

Day 6: Futa Pass to Florence

On the last day, we started our hike at the Futa Pass Cemetery. It was a sobering experience visiting the resting place of over 33,000 German soldiers who perished in the area during World War II. Even today, 75 years after WWII, the numbers of bodies buried here continue to increase as more of them are found.

From there, we walked on to Monti di Fo where we saw the most well-preserved parts of the Roman Way. The ancient path that was built 2200 years ago was buried under 1.2m of earth when it was uncovered.

Eventually we arrived at the Trebbio Castle, a particularly scenic spot where the landscape is made up of rolling green hills dotted by Tuscan farmhouses. As we still had a long way to Florence, our transport picked up and dropped us at San Piero de la Sieve where we had lunch and then took the train to Florence.

Where to Eat & Stay: Residenzia Piandaccoli

In Florence, I stayed at the beautiful Residenzia Piandaccoli in the countryside surrounded by rolling hills and vineyards. It’s only a 20-minute drive from the airport but you feel like you’re in the middle of the backcountry. The villa is gorgeous, with spacious apartments and pool, plus an even more beautiful backdrop of cypress trees and wineries. This was an excellent spot to end my trek! Check the latest rates here.

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Alternative Itinerary for the Path of the Gods

Like I said, I walked only parts of the Path of Gods as I wanted to have other experiences. If you’re a hardcore hiker who wants to complete the entire trek, check out this recommended itinerary.

Day 1: Bologna – Badolo (19.3 km)

Day 2: Badolo – Madonna dei Fornelli (27.8 km)

Day 3: Madonna dei Fornelli – Monte di Fo (17.5 km)

Day 4: Monte di Fo – San Piero A Sieve (21 km)

Day 5: San Piero A Sieve – Olmo (19km)

Day 6: Olmo – Florence (14km)

The hike officially ends at the Piazza della Signoria in Florence, but it is an extremely busy spot. Many hikers choose to end their hike in Fiesole, a village on the outskirts of Florence, where you can feast on nice views of Florence without battling the crowds. Check out this list of top things to do in Florence for inspiration.

From there, you can easily extend your trip with a visit to Cinque Terre or even explore further afield and go on a Puglia road trip in Southern Italy. Italy has SO much to offer, you’ll definitely have no shortage of amazing places to visit.

I hope that this guide will help you plan your own trek on the Path of the Gods. Let me know if you have any questions in the comments field below and I’m more than happy to help!

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Disclaimer: This trip was made possible by the Emilia-Romagna Tourism and iambassador, but as always, all opinions expressed above are my own.