Sudan Travel Guide & Itinerary 2024

Last Updated on March 14, 2024

If you’re seeking to go off the beaten path, travel Sudan for a rewarding and surprising experience. Here is my detailed Sudan travel guide and itinerary.

Many have the misguided view of Sudan is like Egypt — but Sudan deserves more than that.

Sudan is irrefutably an African nation, albeit with a strong Arabic flavor. Thanks to its geographical location in East Central Africa, Sudan has a beautiful blend of African and Arab cultures. The country also has a rich and long history, as evident from its 200+ ancient pyramids. In fact, there are more pyramids here than in Egypt!

Before the independence of South Sudan in 2011, it was the largest country in Africa. Sudan’s diverse landscapes range from vast desert to volcanic massifs and lush river valley. Today it is an absolutely intriguing destination that has been unfortunately overlooked by many travelers. With this Sudan travel guide, I hope to inspire more people to travel to Sudan and uncover this secret destination.

Sudan Travel Guide

Visa for Sudan

Most nationalities need a tourist visa to enter Sudan. You will need a letter of invitation (LOI) to apply for a visa at your nearest embassy. I received my LOI from a tour operator, Italian Tourism Company, and applied for my visa from the embassy in Netherlands. I paid €50 and got it in a week.

For those without a Sudanese embassy in your resident country, most tour operators can actually help you get a visa on arrival. My friend paid $100 for ITC’s service, and another $135 for his visa on arrival.

Once you are in Sudan, you need to register your visa within 3 days. This needs to be done at a Sudanese Police Office, though our tour guide took care of this for us. It’s no longer required to get a photography permit, but make sure you don’t photograph government buildings.

TIP: If you’ve got an Israeli stamp in your passport, you won’t be able to enter Sudan! The only way out is getting a new passport or using a second passport (if you’re one of those lucky few).

Is It Safe to Travel Sudan?

First of all, Darfur does not equate to Sudan. Yes, Darfur is still in conflict, but most of Sudan is actually calm and safe to visit.

The no-go zone is quite far from the main tourist attractions. I never once felt threatened or unsafe in Sudan, even as a female traveler (albeit traveling with a male friend). In fact, traveling in Sudan is hassle free and you won’t need to worry about tourist touts or haggling.

But be warned of the regular protests that take place in Khartoum. The day before I arrived, my friend actually witnessed a major protest going on near our hotel. There were teargas and gunshots, and it was all over the news. Thankfully it cleared completely the next day.

How to Travel to Sudan

Khartoum International Airport (KRT) is the main gateway into Sudan. Most flights to Khartoum fly via Istanbul (Turkey), Addis Ababa (Ethiopia) or Cairo (Egypt).

Egypt Air flies from Cairo to Khartoum regularly (2.5hours direct), and return flights cost around $400 return. Ethiopian Airlines flies from Addis Ababa to Khartoum (2hours direct), and return flights cost around $300 return.

Flights from New York to Khartoum cost around $900 return, on Turkish Airlines via Istanbul. The same airline also flies from London to Khartoum for around $600 return, with a stopover in Istanbul too.

Search for Flights to Sudan

Best Time to Travel Sudan

The best time to travel Sudan is in winter (December to February), when temperatures are comfortable for exploring and the risk of malaria is at its lowest. I wrote this Sudan travel guide based on my trip in March.

In winter, the desert climate causes a huge thermal change between day and night. Daytime temperature is around 77-86°F (25-30°C) and nighttime temperatures drop to around 40-53°F (5-12°C). Sudan can get extremely hot in summer (June to September), with temperatures soaring up to 113°F (45°C). It’s definitely not advisable to visit Sudan in summer.

The tourism season runs from October to April. The temperatures range from 86-100°F (30-38°C) in the day to 53-64°F (12-18°C) at night. From February to April, there may be lots of nimitti, small but extremely annoying flies.

How Much Time to Travel Sudan?

Before South Sudan gained independence from Sudan, it was the biggest country in Africa. You can imagine just how vast and extensive the country is.

We only spent 1 week in Sudan, but you can easily spend a month or more exploring different corners of the country. Most parts of Sudan are actually safe to visit, except for Darfur and the border with South Sudan.

In one week, you can still see and experience a lot in Sudan, especially the historical sites and deserts. I recommend focusing on Karima and Meroe, the two areas where you can visit plenty of ancient temples and pyramids.

1 Week in Sudan: Suggested Itinerary

• Day 1-3: Khartoum
• Day 4: Old Dongola
• Day 5: Jebel Barkal
• Day 6: Meroe Pyramids
• Day 7: Naqa and Mussawarat

2 weeks in Sudan: Recommended Itinerary

• Day 1-3: Khartoum
• Day 4-6: Karima (Jebel Barkal & Old Dongola)
• Day 7-8: Meroe Pyramids
• Day 9: Naqa and Mussawarat
• Day 10-12: Kassala
• Day 13-14: Port Sudan

Travel Sudan Independently or Book a Tour?

It is absolutely possible to travel Sudan independently, BUT it can be challenging to explore the harder-to-reach areas especially for solo female travelers. My friend and I opted for a guided tour, to spend more time in the deserts than cities.

We were very satisfied with our tour operator, the Italian Tourism Company. The company focuses on responsible tourism and hires only local staff and partners. The price was reasonable: our 6-day tour around the Nubian Desert and the best archaeological sites in Sudan cost around US$1150 (inc. all our accommodation, meals, entrance fees).

Our tour was great fun and we had an excellent itinerary. Our female guide, Dibar, was smart, capable and knowledgable. She’s known as the only female guide in Sudan. We really enjoyed her company and learning all about Sudanese history from her (She even quizzed us at the end of the trip which was super fun! I know, I’m such a geek.)

How to Get around Sudan

For those who want to travel Sudan independently, friends who have backpacked Sudan shared that bus travel between all major towns is fairly easy and comfortable.

In general, you can catch big coaches from one city to another. Bus travel is cheap (usually around 10 SDP for a 4 hour ride) and runs 7 days a week, although I’d advise starting out early in the morning if you have a way to go. Traffic in Khartoum is hectic, so be prepared to spend some time navigating the streets.

It’s quite affordable to grab a taxi by flagging one down or using the app Tirhal. It’s like Uber, but only cash is accepted. It’s useful if you don’t speak Arabic.

Best Things to Do in Sudan

See the Sufi Dervish Dance in Omdurman

Located close to Khartoum, Omdurman is the old capital of Sudan and the old town is home to the famous Sufi dance. Every Friday, Sufi believers perform a spiritual dance at the Hamid El-Nil Mosque next to the cemetery. Sufism is the mystical or spiritual branch of Islam.

The hypnotic movements and psychedelic tunes made the ritual absolutely intriguing and entertaining. I also chatted with a few friendly local ladies who were eager to find out what I was doing in Sudan. It was an incredible experience and one that I highly recommend to all visitors.

Do a Free Day Tour of Khartoum

Sudan’s capital, Khartoum, is boisterous and dusty, and traffic is a nightmare. It is honestly not a place you would want to stay for long, in my opinion. But most people who fly into Sudan will inevitably have to spend at least a night here.

To get to know the city, I recommend signing up for a day tour at Acropole Hotel, a landmark hotel and popular choice for travelers in Khartoum. They run a city tour every Friday (2-7pm), free for all guests.

The day tour brings you to 8 spots around the city: including the Sudan National Museum (worth a visit!), the Nile River and avenue, Mahdi’s tomb, Khalifa’s House, and lastly the Sufi dance performance.

Wander around the Old Dongola Archaeological Site

About a 3-hour drive from Khartoum lie the ruins of Old Dongola.  From the 4th to 14th century, Old Dongola was the capital of the Makurian state and an important trade city.  The archaeological site sprawls across a large area, consisting of palace grounds, churches and houses. Archaeologists are still working on excavating the area.

The Throne Hall is the most impressive construction still standing. Its interior is completely sealed off nowadays. There is an audience room with a painted floral band and a figures Christ and a Nubian bishop inside.

Visit the Remarkable Qubbas of Dongola

Next to Old Dongola is a collection of around 99 tombs that resemble giant beehives. Their unique shape make them stand out in the stark desert landscape, and really leave quite an impression on first-time visitors like us.

Dating back to the 12th century, these tombs were built to house the bodies of Sheikhs and important Sufi leaders. These days, the tombs are empty, except for significant numbers of bats.

The interior of the tomb

Hike up Jebel Barkal

Jebel means “mountain” in Arabic, and Jebel Barkal is an isolated red sandstone mountain, considered holy since the ancient times. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the mountain is a large archaeological site stocked full of history.

At the foot of Jebel Barkal stands a big temple dedicated to the Nubian Pharaohs and their patron, Amon. This was the religious heart of Nubia for more than 1000 years. Meander through walkways flanked by giant columns, sculptures of Nubian gods and walls filled with frescos. Jebel Barkal hasn’t been restored the way Egyptian sites have been, but it makes for more authentic experience.

The best time to hike up the mountain is at sunset, where you can see the surrounding desert, palm groves and town awashed in a shade of gold. It only likes 30 minutes of hiking to get up there, and a quick slide down the sand dunes to get back down!

Visit El Kurru and Nuri Necropolis

Just a 15-minute drive from Jebel Barkal is a necropolis of the ancient capital Napata. From the outside, the pyramids don’t look like much as they have not been restored. But one of the tombs has been restored and its underground interior is decorated with colorful frescos and hieroglyphic inscriptions.

The nearby Nuri necropolis features 19 pyramids and 23 tombs of Nubian kings and queens. Again the pyramids aren’t restored to their fully glory, but I found them to be more authentic and still impressive up close. We got to enjoy the pyramids all to ourselves, without a single tourist in sight.

See the Spectacular Meroe Pyramids

The most famous spot in Sudan, the Meroe Pyramids are a spectacular sight that can rival the pyramids of Egypt. But unlike in neighboring Egypt, the Meroe Pyramids are often empty and free of tourists. We had the entire site to ourselves and it was a surreal experience.

Over 200 Nubian pyramids are left standing in the Nubian desert, although most of them have been decapitated. Italian treasure hunter Ferlini destroyed many of the pyramids in 1834 while searching for gold. Today, only a few of the pyramids and their attached chapels have been restored.

The Meroe Pyramids are recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, yet they remain relatively unknown. The Nubian pyramids differ from Egyptian ones: They are smaller — 20 to 90 feet on a side, compared with the Great Pyramid’s 756 feet—with much steeper sides, and most were built two thousand years after those at Giza.

See the Best Preserved Temples at Naqa

Located in the middle of the desert is this collection of well-preserved temples dedicated to the Egyptian god Amon. Getting here is a bit tricky, and you will need a 4×4 to navigate the desert.

Most historical sites in Sudan are found along the Nile — Naqa is an exception. Why it was built far from the region’s major water source and in the depths of the desert still remains unknown.

But for that reason, Naqa has been immaculately preserved, and it remains the best preserved archaeological site in Sudan. The Apedemak Temple in particular is completely intact and its stunning wall reliefs are still clear and prominent.

Admire the Mussawarat Temples

Just a few kilometers from Naqa is the Mussawarat archaeological site where restoration work is still undergoing. Most of the temples are in ruins here, but you can still see remains of columns, walls and reliefs.

The star attraction here is the Temple of Apedemak, which is surprisingly well preserved. You can see clearly defined floor-to-ceiling reliefs depicting the Egyptian gods and Nubian pharaohs.

Get Lost in the Souks of Kassala

Located at the border with Eritrea, Kassala is a city that lies at the foot of the beautiful Taka Mountains. It’s easy to hike up to the mountains from the city to get a panorama of the area.

But Kassala is most famous for its multi-ethnic souk, with tribes from all over northern Sudan coming here to trade. There are also tribes from nearby countries such as Eritrea and Saudi Arabia.

Where to Stay in Sudan

Khartoum: Acropole Hotel

As the oldest established hotel in Khartoum, this old-school hotel was founded in 1952. The cosy guesthouse is run by a Greek-Sudanese family, and it’s a popular option with international travelers. We felt very welcomed and comfortable here. They run a free city tour for guests every Friday at 2pm, which includes a visit to the National Museum and the Sufi dervish dance. Check rates here.

Khartoum: Corinthia Hotel

Corinthia is the only five-star hotel in Khartoum, featuring a unique architecture that resembles Dubai’s Jumeirah Hotel. This is probably the best option if you’re looking for somewhere high-end. Check rates here.

Karima: Karima Nubian Rest House

Located at the base of the holy Jebel Barkal Mountain, this is Sudan’s only boutique hotel. It is an excellent base from which to explore the temples at Jebel Barkal and hike up for sunset. The beautiful Nubian-style lodge has landscaped gardens, stylish  lodge rooms and traditional furnishing. I loved the views and the excellent meals at the lodge. Check rates here.

Meroe: Meroe Safari Camp

Standing in the desert surrounding the Meroe Pyramids, this glamping site gives travelers the chance to stay as close to the pyramids as possible. The safari camp has beautiful, spacious tents that are very comfortable (thou it got pretty cold at night when we were there). Book here! (Pictured)

What to Eat in Sudan

Sudanese food is quite simple and resembles Middle Eastern cuisine. Most meals involve fresh local produce like tomatoes, cheese, cucumber, and yogurt. Rice and pita bread are staples in Sudan.

If Sudan had a national dish, it would be foul (lentil stew). It is the most commonly eaten dish at home. Other popular food in Sudan include shawarma, kofte, and grilled fish. Here are some recommended Sudanese dishes:

• Kisra — Flat bread made from sorghum flour

• Dura — Cooked maize and millet eaten with various vegetables

• Elmaraara — A Sudanese appetizer made from sheep lungs, liver and stomach

• Kawal — A stew made with fermented Cassia obtusifolia leaves

• Kuindiong — Traditional dessert of sweetened semolina

NOTE: Non-Muslims are now allowed to drink alcohol in Sudan, but it is still hard to get. Do not attempt to bring alcohol into Sudan.

Cost of Travel in Sudan

Sudan is a cheap destination for most travelers. It is comparable to Egypt. For those on a strict budget, you can easily spend just $15-20 a day on accommodation, transport and food.

For accommodation, a twin room at a 3-star hotel costs around US$20-40 per night. There aren’t many hostels in Sudan; they are usually simple guesthouses known as ‘lokanda’. These are usually basic places with a bed (and no sheets) and nothing else. They cost anything from $2-10/night.

Food is very cheap in Sudan. A meal in a restaurant generally costs less than US$8 including drinks. If you get a simple dish of foul or shawarma, expect to spend around $1-2 per dish. If you’re looking for a proper fish in a restaurant, you won’t spend more than $5.

For more details on cost of travel in Sudan, check out my friend’s blog post about how much it cost to backpack Sudan.

NOTE: It is NOT possible to withdraw money through ATMs in Sudan. Bring lots of US dollars (make sure they are new notes) and exchange them at the airport.

Internet and Data in Sudan

Getting connected in Sudan is quite easy, but it also depends on where you go. 3G works well in Khartoum, but reception is spotty in areas like Jebel Barkal and Meroe.

There are telco shops at the international airport where you can get SIM cards for a low price. MTN offers 10GB of data for 300 Sudanese Pounds ($6). My friend’s 3G worked rather well, but my SIM didn’t work at all for some reason.

Our hotel in Khartoum, Acropole Hotel, had pretty decent WiFi and even computers available for use. Karima Nubian Rest House and Karima Nubian Rest House were pretty upscale but their WiFi were not really working.

People of Sudan

Language in Sudan

Arabic is the most widely spoken language in the country. The Sudanese Arabic is basically Arabic with a smattering of borrowed vocabulary from local languages. It is unique to Sudan, reflecting the way in which the country is a beautiful mix of African and Arab cultures.

Other important languages include Beja along the Red Sea, Tigre, Fur in (Darfur) in the west, and various Nubian languages along the Nile. English is also spoken by some as a second language, but don’t expect a lot of locals to speak it.

Dressing in Sudan

Sudan practices the Sharia law, and it is a rather conservative Muslim country. That said, they are not extremists and do not expect foreigners to wear headscarves. It is not as strict as in Iran or Saudi Arabia here.

As advised by my tour operator, both men and women need to cover their shoulders and knees. It is advisable to wear loose clothing with high neckline. I wore mostly short-sleeved t-shirts and long pants, and it was fine.

Health in Sudan

No mandatory vaccinations are required in Sudan, but many parts of Sudan are malaria-infected zones. If you are traveling in winter, there are few mosquitoes and the risk of malaria is very low. I didn’t take Malarone, but it is recommended to take it especially if you’re traveling outside of the winter season.

It is best to consult your doctor at least a month before traveling to Sudan. Refer to the CDC website for recommended vaccines.

What to Pack for Sudan

Regardless of the time of the year you’re traveling Sudan, it is important to dress conservatively. Even in summer, when the temperature goes above 100°F(38°C), you have to cover your shoulders and knees.

For ladies, I recommend wearing lightweight blouses and loose pants, which will be comfortable in the heat too. In certain areas, you might want to cover your head with a scarf to show respect. Be sure to bring a long-rimmed hat and sunglasses for the heat.

For those traveling in winter, you’ll need a small jacket as it gets pretty cool at night. Daytime temperature is around 77-86°F (25-30°C) and nighttime temperatures drop to around 40-53°F (5-12°C).

Recommended Sudan Packing List:

• SPF 70 Sunscreen
• Mosquito repellent with DEET
• Sun hat that covers the neck
• Polarized sunglasses
• SteriPen to sterilize water
• Quick-dry t-shirts
• Harem yoga pants
• Trekking pants
• Down jacket
• Lightweight sleepwear
• Shemagh or scarf
• Teva sandals
• Hiking shoes
• Medical kit

Things to Know before Traveling to Sudan

• It is not possible to get cash at ATMs or banks in Sudan. Make sure you bring enough USD (new notes!) to last you for the whole trip. Your best bet is to exchange it all at the airport upon arrival.

• You can also exchange money at the black market, but make sure you count your cash properly.

• Since Sudan is a Muslim country, weekends fall on Friday and Saturday. Many shops are closed on Saturday and you will find the streets empty.

• Despite the strict Sharia Islamic law, it is now legal for non-Muslims to drink alcohol. However, alcohol is not easy to get. Do not think of bringing alcohol into the country.

• Unlike in neighboring Egypt, scamming is not common in Sudan and tourist touts are not aggressive or pushy. You won’t need to haggle. Just say no politely and smile, and local vendors will leave you in peace.

• There are few tourists in Sudan. We mainly saw other travelers in our hotels, but we rarely saw anyone else at the archaeological sites. The money you spend usually go straight to local villagers.

Enjoy Your Trip to Sudan!

Have I answered all your questions on Sudan travel? Let me know in the comments field below and I will be more than happy to help you out! I hope this article has inspired you to plan your own Sudan trip!

Here are more articles that I’ve written about nearby countries in the Horn of Africa:

• My 2-Week Egypt Itinerary
• Is Egypt Safe to Travel
• Cairo Itinerary & Guide
• Ethiopia Travel Guide
• Eritrea Travel Guide
• A Guide to Ethiopian Food
• Celebrating Timkat in Ethiopia
• The Rock Churches of Lalibela, Ethiopia

Disclaimer: I received a media discount from Italian Tourism Company, but as always, all opinions expressed are my own.

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